Some trends are made by a designer, fancying a beautiful collection and having it influence the world. But some trends are also created on the street, by sub-cultures, ethnic groups, music genres, and the likes. In these next few blog posts, I will explore the eight recognized street trends and how we continue to see their presence on current runways...
Monday, May 4, 2009
BEATNIK street trend
The Beatniks arose as a response to the materialistic lifestyle that abounded in the 1950s. The Beatniks were anti-consumerism and, thus, were often seen wearing simple clothes in plain colors. They were known, fashionably, for cigarette pants and cigarettes, berets, dark glasses, and a dim expression. Jack Kerouac epitomized this lifestyle in his novel On the Road, written in 1951 and published in 1957. Audrey Hepburn perhaps is most famous for her Beatnik character in Funny Face, and designers are still considering the Beatnik aesthetic a staple for inspiration.
Beatnik on the street
Audrey Hepburn plays a Beatnik in Funny Face, 1957
BEATNIK on the runway
Emporio Armani, Fall 2009, modern beatnik style
Emporio Armani, Fall 2009, modern beatnik style
Emporio Armani, Fall 2009, modern beatnik style
Betsey Johnson, Fall 2008, sexy beatnik style
Betsey Johnson, Fall 2008, sexy beatnik style
ZOOT SUITS street trend
Zoot suits came about mainly in the Latin, Hispanic, and African-American communities in the late 1930s and 1940s. This style is derived from the Harlem jazz scene and generally is linked to swing music. Zoot is thought to be the Hispanic way of pronouncing "suit" and is considered to mean suit twice. These suits were characterized by high waist lines and pegged legs, with lots of volume in between. Women were not immune to this culture, though they tended to show up in voluminous dresses ready to swing. John Galliano has a wonderful reinterpretation of this time period in his Spring 2000 collection and actually made zoot suits look fetching for women.
Zoot Suit on the street
Zoot Suits, photo taken by John Ferrell and first published in June 1942 (taken from Wikipedia); Soldier inspecting zoot suits
ZOOT SUIT on the runway
John Galliano, Spring 2000, zoot suit reinterpretation
John Galliano, Spring 2000, zoot suit reinterpretation
John Galliano, Spring 2000, zoot suit reinterpretation
John Galliano, Spring 2000, zoot suit time period reinterpretation of swing outfit for women
John Galliano, Spring 2000, zoot suit time period reinterpretation of swing outfit for women
PUNK street trend
Punk was a subculture that developed from Punk music in the early 80s, and continues to be a subculture to this day, though some might say the music isn't as good. Most Punks had left-wing views and some may have promoted anarchy, anti-capitalism, veganism and animal rights. Their style encompassed brightly colored hair of all shades, mohawks and general out-there hair-dos involving lots of color and hairspray, ripped jeans, safety pins, heavy makeup (particularly on the eyes), tattoos, and a range of other details. Below, notice original punk styling elements and how it is translated onto the Luella Fall 2009 runway.
PUNK on the street
Atlanta Punk scene, 1980s
1980s glam Punk, democraticundergound .com
PUNK on the runway
Luella punk inspired looks, Fall 2009
Luella punk inspired looks, Fall 2009
Luella punk inspired looks, Fall 2009
Luella punk inspired looks, Fall 2009
DISCO street trend
Disco began as a dance genre in the late 1960s-early 1970s, primarily in African-American and Hispanic communities. Many say it was the precursor to the types of dance clubs we have today. A style of dress evolved from this dance movement, (also made popular by such films as Flashdance, Saturday Night Fever and clubs such as Studio 54), which probably originated for ease of movement, such as spandex and polyesters. This was a flashy period, one wrought with sequins, beading, and sparkling baubles. Hair was big, asymmetric cuts were the status quo, and jumpsuits were not to be contended with. Some images below of the transition from disco street style to disco runway style.
Disco on the street
Studio 54 club goers in disco dress, 1970s
Gloria Gaynor Greatest Hits album, 1983 release (late 1970s photo-disco style)
Disco on the runway
Emanuel Ungaro, Fall 2000, disco style
Emanuel Ungaro, Fall 2000, disco style
Emanuel Ungaro, Fall 2000, disco style
Emanuel Ungaro, Fall 2000, disco style
HIPPIE street trend
The Hippies came about in the USA as a response to the Vietnam war and essentially created one of the best known countercultures to ever exist. Embracing flowers, music, openness, sharing and caring, drug use and alternate states of mentality, the Hippies were known for finding their garments at thrift stores. During the 1960s, the time of the Hippies, Victorian garb seemed to be a mainstay in the local bargain bins and heavily influenced the dress shapes and palettes. We tend to remember Hippies in long, fluid gowns, velvets, florals, long hair, headbands... or cut-off jeans remastered with patchwork, patches, or embroidery to spiff up old finds and set themselves apart.
Hippies on the street
Stevie Nicks of Fleetwood Mac performs in the 1960s, an icon of Hippiedom
Hippies, 1968, Sydney Morning Herald
Hippie, 1969
Hippies in a van, 1969
Hippie on the runway
Diane Von Furstenburg, Spring 2009, Hippie inspired
Diane Von Furstenburg, Spring 2009, Hippie inspired
Diane Von Furstenburg, Spring 2009, Hippie inspired
Diane Von Furstenburg, Spring 2009, Hippie inspired
Diane Von Furstenburg tapped back to Hippie-land for her Spring 2009 collection. Overloaded with floral headbands, cascading dresses with floral prints, long hair, and Hippie vibrancy... it's easy to pinpoint the inspiration here.
MOD street trend
The Mods originated in the 50s in Britain and continued until the early 60s, where they peaked. This subculture rejected the middle class at the time and threw themselves into pop music, all night dancing, and riding scooters, among other things. They were highly interested in fashion, clean simple lines, bright colors, and bold patterns. The A-line mini-dress is synonymous with this time period.
Mod in the streets
British mods in the 60s (exact date unknown)
Pin-up of Mod, Edie Sedgewick, ca. 1960s
TEDDY BOYS street trend
The British Teddy Boys were strongly linked to American rock and roll. This subculture made it okay to care about one's appearance for the sake of caring about one's appearance, and was also enhanced by Saville Row's introduction of Edwardian detailing. Below are images of the Teddy Boys style as seen both on the street and the runway.
Teddy Boys on the street
Teddy Boys, 1962 (sixtiescity)
Teddy Boys at a Southend wedding, 1975 (teddyboycollared .com)
Teddy Boys on the Runway
Givenchy Spring 2001
Givenchy Spring 2001
It was said that Alexander McQueen was inspired by the Teddy Boys for his Spring 2001 collection for Givenchy. The looks speak for themselves.
HIP HOP street trend
Hip hop originated on the streets of the five burroughs of New York as a response to the living situation, including rap and hip hop music. While originating in the streets, this style has been a major influence on the runways and is guaranteed to be seen in some form of interpretation every season. Even designers such as Sean Jean and Tommy Hilfiger have catered to this appeal.
Foxy Brown press image, 2007
Cool Bulgarians.com, Nov. 2007
praising their own sense of hip hop streetwear
Christian Dior Fall 2000 collection, hip hop inspired
Christian Dior Fall 2000 collection, hip hop inspired
Hip hop originated on the streets of the five burroughs of New York as a response to the living situation, including rap and hip hop music. While originating in the streets, this style has been a major influence on the runways and is guaranteed to be seen in some form of interpretation every season. Even designers such as Sean Jean and Tommy Hilfiger have catered to this appeal.
hip hop on the street
Foxy Brown press image, 2007
Cool Bulgarians.com, Nov. 2007
praising their own sense of hip hop streetwear
hip hop on the runway
Christian Dior Fall 2000 collection, hip hop inspired
Christian Dior Fall 2000 collection, hip hop inspired
Christian Dior Fall 2000 collection, hip hop inspiredNEW UNDERGROUND TRENDS
Current street trends abound that have yet to make it into the fashion history books, but surely inspire the runway.
MODERN FOLK
With the influx of a return to naturalism, a rise in the popularity of modern folk music (singers such as Joanna Newsom, Devendra Banhart, Marissa Nadler), and a general nostalgic feeling in the air, it is no wonder folk is making a comeback, in a very modern way.
on the streets
Marissa Nadler, photo from American Jewish Life Magazine, Feb/Mar 2008 issue
modern folk artist influencing fashion
on the runways
Jovovich Hawk Spring 2007
Jovovich Hawk, Spring 2007
Milla Jovovich and Carmen Hawk are design partners who definitely take stock in folksy fashion elements, perhaps because this is an era that really inspires their work.
HIPSTER
One such trend is the "hipster" trend that is abundant in my neck of the city, The Mission district. Other cities that have embraced this look and way of living is Williamsburg in Brooklyn, NYC and Silverlake in Los Angeles, CA. Hipsters embody a mindset that is somewhere between bohemians and beatniks-this intellectual-above-consumerism-artistic vibe, where clothes come from vintage shops and bargain bins and mindsets are derived from underground art, music, and film. This is the hipster crowd of 2009, very much still "indie" as a backlash to corporations and consumption. Many hipster staples include retro and folksy dresses, skinny pants, headpieces (hats, headbands), quirk of all thrift store nature, fixed gear bicycles, unique sunglasses, secretary purses, bow-ties, shaggy haircuts, bangs, etc.
hipster on the streets
hipster myspace muses taken from "whowhatweardaily" April, 2009
Jenny Lewis featured on Paper Magazine Online, 5.4.09
Lewis is a singer/songwriter/hipster currently thriving in Los Angeles. She has influenced many a fan with her retro inspired sundresses, her famous hotpants during the "Under the Blacklight" tour, her quirky sunglasses, and general innovative attire.
hipster on the runway
Alexander Wang, Fall 2008 ready-to-wear
hipster bridging the gap
Zooey Deschanel for Oliver Peoples, publicity ad 2009
Deschanel was tapped by Peoples to create a line of quirky sunglasses, (clearly appealing to her hipster persona and influence amongst fellow hipsters/followers) for their Spring/Summer 2009 campaign. Check out website here, where they even have a short film by Autumn De Wilde (hipster photographer extraordinaire), starring Zooey and Matt Costa, as well as information about the three. That's branching out for Oliver Peoples.
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