Historical Artistic Reference in Fashion...

Fashion often takes it's cues from artistic styles of a current era. As such, art and fashion truly evolve hand in hand. Links can be made from every piece of clothing throughout time, which is also useful in identifying a time period, the way people lived, and what kinds of social, ethical, and economical values were prominent. In the past, most references to history have been made by the processes of analyzing art from that time. While fashion may not hold up as long, (although who's to say with possible technologically induced pieces in the future), it can be read just the same and deduce historical context. Following are some images from present day design collections and the way these collections have referenced a historical period through notable elements. 

GRECIAN

Spring 2000, Narciso Rodriguez

In Ancient Greece, there was a prominence in draped garments. This was due to many factors, one of them being the popularity of wool as a fabric. One of the major art forms was sculpture from stone and marble, and this art form emulated the dress of the times as much as it reinforced it. Leaders of this time were idolized in stone in their fluid garments, setting a precedent for fashion that followed. With Greek Gods as the religious system of the time, the color white was highlighted as a symbol of purity, most of the Gods portrayed in their flowing white garments. Here, Narcisco Rodrigues takes elements from that time and reinterprets them in his Spring 2000 collection.

LOUIS XIV, Marie Antoinette Inspired

GILES, Spring 2008

The period of Louis XIV lives in French history as one of the most lavish periods. Marked by extreme excess, beautiful rich colors and embellishments, every aspect of France was notable affected. Marie Antoinette probably marks this period more so than her husband, the King, as her opulent attire and they way she transformed the prominent styles of the time was something not to be forgotten. Seen through architecture, the arts of the time including the theatre as well as painting and sculpture, even manuscript, this style is very distinctive. In the above images, Giles is definitely influenced by the excesses of the Louis XIV period, from the lavish head adornments, to the candy colored layers upon layers of fabric, to the waist and bustlines, this collection screams "Marie Antoinette!"

VICTORIAN

COMMES DE GARCONS, Fall 2005

The Victorian era was one marked of femininity and conservatism. In dress, women were covered up from head to toe. It was a righteous era, and the art pieces represented this to the fullest extent. In literature, such as Kate Chopin's "The Awakening" we see the confines of womanhood, and so it was also represented in many other aspects of Victorian life. Rei Kawakubo, for Commes de Garcons, does an excellent job here of reinventing Victorian elements such as the leg-o-mutton sleeve and the general covering of the entire body. She uses femininity to the fullest extent, floral arrangements, bridal-like purity white, bows and pintucking.

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FLAPPER, 1920's

DIANE VON FURSTENBURG, Spring 2004

The 20s was a time of upheaval for America and the world over. Prohibition, a recent war, woman fighting for rights... This was a turning point. Art deco movement is on the rise which embraces prints never before seen, exotic influences in film and art, metallics, colors, embellishments once again return in a way never before seen. A modern way. In her Spring 2004 collection, Diane Von Furstenburg capitalizes on this new youth, the Golden era, with her reference to Art Deco and the new woman of the 20s. The headpiece, the silhouette, the hairstyle, it's all there.

POST-WAR 1940s

D'SQUARED, Fall 2008

ALLEGRA HICKS, Fall 2008

 The 1940s brought art back to minimalism. While the country was once again reeling from war, rationing began again. This made materials scarce for every day living and even more so from art. Colors vanished and drab was in. Silhouettes became pared down, and this rang true throughout life as a whole, be it fashion, art, architecture, etc. While loud details were on mute, design details were still apparent, trying to make the best of what was had. Both D'Squared and Allegra Hicks capitalize on this idea in their Fall 2008 collections, referencing that drab minimalist mindset and making it desirable.

MOD 1960s

BALENCIAGA, Pre-Fall 2008

The 60s mimicked the 20s in the realm of social upheaval: Civil Rights, war, counter-culture. The 50s conservatism was out and 60s openness was in. References can even be drawn to the 20s here in silhouette, the shortening of hems, the wild embellishments (though this time in the form of crazy prints and op art). Many artists were experimenting with color and bold prints as we had never seen before, what we now call "retro." For Pre-Fall 2008, Nicholas Ghesquiere references the swingin' sixties with his mod silhouettes and bold patterns, even the gogo boots and mod beret helmet reference tie up the package neatly.

Geneology of Pointed Shoes...

Pointed shoes as we know them today began from much different circumstances...and appearances. 

The trend towards pointed shoes originated somewhere around the 12th century. The earliest known invention of pointed shoes was in France (made for the Count of Anjou in order to mask his deformed feet). Later in the 12th century King Phillip Augustus didn't want to look lesser to the common folk, so he declared that his subjects' points should be between six and twelve inches long based on their status. It was also said that King Henry II of England had deformed feet, bringing about his wearing of narrow, pointed shoes. During this time period, the Knights of Richard the Lionhearted start wearing "sollerets", a downward curved pointed toe shoe, so their feet wouldn't slip out of their stirrups. Some historians also attribute this trend to the Crusades as well as exposure to Eastern styles of dress. It should be noted here that these shoes were worn by men and not women.

This image is dated in the 12th century. It is a painting of Philip Augustus and Richard the Lionhearted (his uncle) in full regalia (notice the pointed shoes) right before taking off for the Third Crusade.

By the 14th century, the pointed shoes became so popular that people competed to see how long their points could be:  the longer the better. The length of the points became a mark of nobility and eventually the points were so long some people had to secure them at the knee. Clergy men complained that they couldn't kneel to pray with such points, people started tripping, and soon enough laws enacting pointed toe length came into play. With the popularity of these pointed shoes, also called "poulaines" or "crackowes" (as they became popular in Crackow, Poland) shoes, also came the disgrace as some men would wiggle their points suggestively as an attractive woman walked by. This led to "poulaines" being viewed as vulgar. 

1460 was the pinnacle of the pointed shoe, when Edward IV created a law prohibiting certain length extensions for "commoners." 

A few years later, the trend began to wane, mainly due to two events that happened:

1. Duke Leopold II of Austria died after he tripped over his long, pointy shoes while trying to escape his assassins.

2. King Charles VIII of France had deformed feet (what is it with royalty and deformed feet?) which required that the shoe he wore be a square toe, thus again changing the fashion for the ruling class.

Here is a piece of art from the time, depicting the current popular look of pointed shoes for males:

"L'instruction d'un jeune prince (Instruction of a Young Prince)", an advice book on good conduct by Guillebert de Lannoy, c. 1468-70

15th century "poulaines"

After 1500 a blunt, pointed toe returned (this is also the time that heels emerged) and by the 17th century women decided that a pointed toe is much more feminine and thus we start to see the trend cross over genders. However the fabrics used during this time were extremely dainty and stayed that way up until the 19th century. Men also began to wear pointed toes again, but this time in a minimalist way. 

19th century pointed toes (designer uncredited), symmetrical soles

In 1955, Marilyn Monroe emerged and created a demand for the tall stiletto heels with extremely pointed toes (created at this time in Italy and dubbed "winkle pickers"). This then became the model for today's pointed heel/shoe.

A Lennards ad for pointed shoes with a heel, c. 1950s.

From the 1950s to today the pointed shoe has been a staple in female wardrobes across the world. The colors, heights, fabrics and circumstance may change, but the point remains in vogue, a staple if you will.

 

Christian Louboutin pumps, Spring 2009, Saks Fifth Avenue catalogue

Draped and tailored garments have been around since the beginning of garments themselves... Below are some examples of these kinds of garments from different times, cultures, and parts of the world.

TAILORED GARMENTS:

Tailored Menswear has been the "go-to" for mens' garments since tailoring was first developed, and we still find versions of mens' tailoring to this day. Here is a photo of a typical tailored mens' outfit from 1850-1915.

Tailoring was also seen in womenswear throughout time, particularly in France. One period that stands out is PRE-REVOLUTIONARY France,  during the reign of Marie Antoinette. She was known for her extravagances, one of which was clothing... custom tailored clothing consisting of tight corsetry and precise measurements.  

Perhaps best known for their tailored garments is SAVILLE ROW in England. A street full of custom tailors and the development of "bespoke" tailoring, this infamous street was alive and thriving up until very recently, where tailors are slowing being driven out by mass consumerism. One such modern tailor-driven designer to inhabit the street is the infamous PAUL SMITH, a must have for any discerning male... Here is a suit from one of his recent collections.

DRAPED GARMENTS:

The LOINCLOTH, the first means of easily covering oneself, was common in ancient Egypt. Here, we see a drawing of Syrians in their peasant loincloth draped on their bodies...

TOGA and other means of DRAPE, literally, were also quite common in Greek and Roman times as a full piece outfit. There were many ways of wearing and draping these pieces of cloth, it was a science unto itself, but this is where draping really came into it's own in fashion terms... Here is a Roman marble statue from ancient Roman times, and this style of drape belongs to that period...

The SARONG was one non-western development of draping, coming from the really hot areas like Africa and several island nations. To wear a sarong today is still a common practice, not only among those native people but among many others who venture into "hot" territory. Alfred Shaheen was hugely influenced by the sarong style and his garments were quite popular in the 50s-60s, here's one look from his many designs in sarong style.

The 6 Functions of Dress

Fashion can be viewed in many contexts, but there are 6 main functions of dress that are used to categorize the things we put on our bodies and why. These are: environmental protection, decoration, gender differentiation, group membership, ceremonialism and sexual enhancement. I have listed examples of each below for further understanding.

ENVIRONMENTAL PROTECTION

Eskimos are a great example of people who dress for environmental protection. With the extremely cold weather conditions, the Eskimos developed methods of dressing including animal skins, furs, etc, to shield themselves from their environmental conditions. 

DECORATION

In finding ways to represent who we are, we constantly seek ways of decorating ourselves. Tattooing is one example of decoration in dress. Tattoos can serve many purposes in decorations, such as srtistic expression, notes of bravery, etc. In New Zealand, the Maori people use facial tattooing as a means of decor:

GENDER DIFFERENTIATION

Many cultures have marked differences between men and women in their society. As such, there are clothing differences that represent this. The first thing that comes to my mind are the burqas that Islamic women wear to cover themselves, not to be taken off until they are back in the sanctuary of their own homes. Here is a photo of two Afghan women, in current times, wearing their burqas:

GROUP MEMBERSHIP

Many garments are worn to classify the wearer in a certain category, group, or related in some way to a particular way of thinking. The uniform is a common example of group membership attire. Below is a photo of a pirate, showing the traditional pirate garb/uniform  and overall "look" that has been sported in different varieties by pirates throughout time. 

CEREMONIALISM

This is when we wear garments for the ritual of something, to represent the "ceremony" that is taking place. For example, we can look at coronations to see traditional garb that has been worn for centuries, and some that have been newly added or updated, to mark the event that is taking place. Seen above is a photo of Queen Elizabeth's coronation in 1953, complete with the ceremonial cloaks and crowns.

SEXUAL ENHANCEMENT

And underlying reason for many an outfit is to provoke or enhance one's sexuality. Most people to do in an effort to look more sexually appealing. A great example of this was the Victorian era and the use of the corset to shrink the waist to make the bust and hips look larger and the waist non-existant. This gave the illusion of the more child-bearing hourglass figure. Seen here in Victorian photo:

Materials Through the Times...

The textiles used throughout our history have not only marked the times from which they were created, but have played a key role in the development of garments themselves. From the fluid ease of the draped clothing of the Greek Empire, to the mechanical innovations of Hussein Chalayan today, garments cannot be discussed, worn, or made without first dissecting the textiles from which they are born. Take a look at some of the major textiles that have created the market for fashion in the first place:

C A V E M A N  L E A T H E R

Leather was one of the first textiles used in the history of mankind... Before sewing was developed, man used their hunting skills and put those animal hides to use to keep them warm throughout those intense cold seasons. Though clothing was primarily animal derived in nature, the cavemen were skilled at using every part of the animal for some kind of use in their lives, not killing in vain.

G R E E K   W O O L

Greeks were notorious for their lightweight wools and the innovative ways in which they draped the fabric around their bodies to create fluid shapes. The Greeks did not condone sewing, as that was seen as Barbaric. Instead, they opted for the more cultured activities of spinning and weaving, and wee an instrumental nation in the development of wool manufacturing.

A N C I E N T  I N D I A N  C O T T O N 

The ancient Indian civilization were the first to produce cotton which is now a mainstay in wardrobe pieces. This fabric was imported to Egypt, Greece, and Rome, though used in numerous other ways. Cotton, along with wool and leather above are still going strong today.

C H I N E S E  S I L K

  The Chinese were

       pioneers in creating beautiful silk. After Europeans spent loads of money importing the fabric into their countries, they eventually found ways to import the silkworms themselves, thus saving much dinero.However, the quality of ancient Chinese silk will always remain superb.

1 9 3 0 s  R A Y O N

In the 1930s, rayon was developed as an alternative to silk. Synthetically made from wood, this fabric had the same weight and fluid properties of silk, without the cost. Rayon is still a common fabric today, though it doesn't seem to have the same feel as the much-sought-after-1930s-dresses. In fact, there has even been headway in the development of organic rayon made from bamboo fibers, which is unique of a synthetic fabric process.

P O L Y E S T E R

Though polyester was first developed in the early 20th century, it did not become a common fabric for clothing until the 1960s. Many people associate the fabric with a sort of kitschy retro look, but polyester can be made in many different kinds of weights and feels. In fact, today it is actually becoming a sought after fabric, with all of the high-tech developments that have made it quite the interesting high-fashion choice. Yes, that's right, it is not uncommon to find polyester fabric in garments off the runway and sitting at Barney's.

E C O - F R I E N D L Y  F A B R I C S

With the care and concern over the environment today, and the eco-movement really branching into the mainstream, the fashion industry is finally starting to follow suit in the development and creation of eco-fabrics and sustainable garments. This, along with high-tech processes, are the predicted wave of the fashion future. Innovations have been made in the creation of peace silk, animal friendly wool, bamboo rayons and yarns, banana silk and yarn, and organics across the board. Much innovation is still needed, however, particularly in the realm of textile printing and dyeing. 

The Individualist

Welcome to my brand-spanking-new "fashion sourcebook." This site was created as a space to archive and shine a spotlight on key moments, important figures, sensitive and fabulous issues relating to fashion. Ultimately, this site will serve as an inspirational resource to myself and those who visit...

That being said, I thought I'd break in my first post with an image of singer/general innovator: BJORK, wearing "the swan dress" that was so ridiculed not only in it's moment, but continues to be a hot topic in the books of fashion. What I love about this particular moment is the ultimate message that Bjork continues to send throughout her mere existence, which is that of individuality. Cliched as it may be, what I tend to find a lot in fashion is a lack of individuality and a devotion to "must haves" or "labels for labels sake"- essentially keeping up with the Jones' mentality. Bjork is a shining example of personal style, which is why any true fashionista (in my opinion) would hail this appearance as one of the greatest style moments of all time. 

Bjork, to me, is a shining example of true individualism and the power to create new paths in an era where originality is rare to exist.